Save Up To $4,000 — Beat the 2026 Price Rise

Australia’s toughest and most advanced off-road caravans are now available with limited-time savings on selected models.

Included Models:

• Rogue X – Couples Off Road Touring Hybrid Caravan

• Iridium 13 & 15 – Couples Pop Top Off Road Hybrid Campers

• Marlu Tourer – Pop Top & Hard Top Off Road Hybrid

• Nullah Hybrid – Family Off Road Hybrid Camper

• Rugrat Family Hybrid – Triple Bunk Off Road Hybrid Caravan

• Elite X Off Road Forward Fold Camper

• TF2 Off Road Camper

Why Buy Now?

• Lock in 2025 pricing before national 2026 price rises

• Limited stock across all dealerships

• Demo & aged-plate discounts up to $4500 OFF

• High-value upgrade packs included on selected models

Included Premium Features:

• REDARC Advanced Power Systems

• Lithium battery upgrades

• Upgraded REDARC Solar Systems

• Cruisemaster ATX / Tough Dog Suspension Systems

• Premium Inclusions & Advanced Power Systems

What is the Gusto DRS

The Gusto DRS is a dust-reduction / pressurisation unit for caravans, camper trailers, and hybrids. Its goal is to reduce dust ingress (i.e. dust getting in through vents, seams, etc.) by keeping the inside slightly positively pressurised.

Having good suspension on your Signature camper trailer is important because it directly affects safety, comfort, and durability, especially when travelling off-road or over rough terrain. Here are the key reasons:

1. Protects your trailer and gear – Quality suspension absorbs bumps, potholes, and corrugations, reducing stress on the trailer frame, chassis, and fittings. This helps prevent damage to cupboards, appliances, and other equipment inside.

2. Improves towing stability – A well-designed suspension keeps the trailer steady and reduces sway, making it safer and easier to tow, even on uneven or slippery surfaces.

3. Increases comfort – Both you and your passengers benefit, as smoother suspension prevents constant jolting and bouncing while driving.

4. Enhances off-road capability – Good suspension provides better wheel articulation and ground clearance, allowing the trailer to handle rocky tracks, sand, and creek crossings without getting stuck or damaged.

5. Prolongs tyre life – Suspension keeps the wheels in proper contact with the ground, reducing uneven tyre wear and the risk of blowouts.

6. Safety first – Stable suspension ensures better braking performance and control, especially when carrying heavy loads.

In short, good suspension makes your camper trailer tougher, safer, and more reliable on and off the beaten track.

It’s really important to tighten the wheel nuts on your camper trailer for a few key reasons:

1. Safety on the road – Loose wheel nuts can cause the wheel to wobble, come off, or even detach completely while driving. This can lead to accidents, damage to your camper, or serious injury.

2. Protects your hubs and studs – If the wheel isn’t firmly seated, it puts extra strain on the wheel studs and hub assembly. This can cause the studs to shear off or the hub to wear prematurely.

3. Prevents uneven wear – A loose wheel doesn’t spin properly, which can lead to uneven tyre wear and reduced tyre life.

4. Legal compliance – In Australia (and most places), it’s your responsibility to ensure your trailer is roadworthy. If a wheel comes off due to loose nuts, you could be held liable.

5. Peace of mind when towing – Camper trailers often travel long distances and over rough terrain. Checking and tightening wheel nuts before every trip means you can tow with confidence, knowing your setup is secure.

Here are the main advantages of having an induction cooker in a Signature camper van:

1. Energy Efficient – Induction cooktops use electromagnetic energy to heat pots and pans directly, so less energy is wasted compared to gas or traditional electric stoves. This means faster cooking and less battery or inverter drain.

2. Fast Cooking – Heat is delivered instantly and directly to the cookware, cutting down cooking times – handy when you’re on the road or after a long day exploring.

3. Safe to Use – The cooktop surface stays relatively cool (only the pan gets hot), reducing the risk of burns. Induction units also shut off automatically when no cookware is detected.

4. No Open Flame – Safer inside the van as there’s no risk of gas leaks or naked flames, and no need to carry or store gas bottles just for cooking.

5. Cleaner Cooking – With no combustion, there’s no soot, smoke, or lingering gas smell. The flat glass surface is easy to wipe down after meals.

6. Compact & Space-Saving – Slim design makes it easy to integrate into a camper van kitchen without taking up much space.

7. Better Indoor Air Quality – No fumes or carbon monoxide from burning gas, which is especially important in a small enclosed space like a camper van.

8. Works Perfectly with Solar & Battery Systems – Signature camper vans often come with strong solar and lithium battery setups. Induction pairs well with this, giving you a fully off-grid, gas-free cooking solution.

It’s a common idea among touring and off-road travellers: “If my 4WD and caravan share the same wheels and tyres, I’ll only need one type of spare.”

While the thought is appealing, the reality is far more complex. Between weight requirements, hub configurations, offsets, and tyre dynamics, it’s possible but a much more difficult process than can sometimes be worth. Below we’ll break down why.

Why Matching Isn’t a simple swap & go solution

• Swapping wheels and tyres between your 4WD and caravan isn’t always possible because each is engineered for different requirements. Caravans need wheels and tyres with higher static load ratings, specific stud patterns, and offsets designed for their axles and suspension. Even small differences in tyre size, hub fitment, or brake clearance can make wheels incompatible—and forcing a mismatch can compromise safety and performance.

   

Wheel & Tyre Load Ratings

Load ratings are non-negotiable.

• Wheel Load Rating: This is the maximum static weight a wheel can support. Caravan wheels usually need a higher load rating than vehicle wheels because each axle carries more weight per wheel than on a tow vehicle. For example, a caravan with an ATM of 3,000kg on a tandem axle spreads 750kg per wheel. The chosen wheel must exceed that figure.

• Tyre Load Rating: Stamped on the tyre’s sidewall (e.g., “1150kg @ 65psi”), this is the maximum weight the tyre can handle at a given pressure. Tyres chosen for caravans must comfortably exceed the real-world load—ideally with a safety margin.

• The Catch: 4WD tyres are often designed for traction, speed ratings, and comfort. Caravan tyres are engineered for carrying heavy loads consistently. Matching them usually means compromising one or the other.

Stud Patterns & PCD

Even if the wheels “look” the same, subtle differences make interchangeability difficult.

• Stud Pattern: Refers to the number of wheel studs (bolts) and their arrangement. Common setups include 5-stud and 6-stud designs.

• PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter): This is the diameter of the circle that passes through the centre of all the studs. For example, a “6×139.7” means six studs arranged in a 139.7mm circle.

• The Problem: Your caravan might run a 6×139.7 pattern, while your 4WD has a 6×135. Even though they’re both “six-stud,” they are not interchangeable.

Offset (ET)

Offset is one of the most misunderstood elements in wheel compatibility.

• What is Offset? It’s the distance between the wheel’s mounting face and its centreline, measured in millimetres.

  • Positive offset: Mounting face sits closer to the outside of the wheel (common in modern 4WDs).

  • Negative offset: Mounting face sits further inside (common in caravans and older off-road wheels).

• Why it Matters: Incorrect offset changes where the load sits on wheel bearings and suspension. Too much positive offset can cause rubbing on brakes or control arms; too much negative offset increases stress on bearings and axles.

• Caravan Impact: Caravan hubs and stub axles are engineered with specific offsets in mind. Swapping to 4WD wheels with different offsets can lead to premature bearing or suspension failure.

Tyre Size & Rolling Diameter

Tyres aren’t just about width and diameter—they directly affect handling and safety.

• Size Format Example: A 265/70R17 tyre has:

  • 265mm tread width

  • 70% aspect ratio (tyre height is 70% of width = 185.5mm)

  • Fits a 17-inch wheel

• Rolling Diameter: The total height of the tyre once fitted. If caravan tyres are significantly smaller or larger than your 4WD tyres, matching them introduces stability risks.

• Sidewall Stiffness: Caravan tyres are built with stiffer sidewalls to handle load and resist sway. 4WD tyres often prioritise off-road grip and flex. Swapping them undermines performance in both applications.

The Better Approach

Instead of forcing your caravan to use your 4WD wheels and tyres:

• Carry dedicated spares—one for your 4WD and at least one for your caravan.

• Use tyres and wheels engineered specifically for caravan loads.

• Match tyre pressures and load ratings to the van’s ATM for stability and compliance.

• Focus on maintenance—checking pressures, bearings, and wear regularly.

• Carry a Tyre Puncture Repair Kit – this has been a simple solution for us when exploring remote Australia and provides a quick and simple repair, but is also easier to pack and saves weight.

Final Word

While matching your 4WD and caravan wheels may sound like the ultimate touring hack, it’s usually more trouble than it’s worth. Load ratings, stud patterns, offsets, and tyre designs are rarely aligned between vehicles and vans—and overlooking these differences can compromise safety.

The best solution? Use properly rated caravan wheels and tyres, carry the right spares, and keep both setups maintained for reliable, worry-free travel.

The Signature Iridium 15 is a hybrid off-road camper, and like all vans, the right tow vehicle depends on its ATM (Aggregate Trailer Mass), ball weight, and how much gear you load into it.

Here’s a breakdown for you:

1. Towing Specs for the Iridium 15

• Tare weight (empty): around 2,000–2,200 kg (varies with options).

• ATM (fully loaded): approx. 2,700–3,000 kg.

• Tow ball weight: usually 180–250 kg (depending on load balance).

That means you need a vehicle legally rated to tow at least 3,000 kg braked, with a good tow ball download rating (at least 250–300 kg).

2. Vehicle Classes That Work Well

• Utes (Dual Cabs):

  • Toyota LandCruiser 79 Series

  • Ford Ranger / Raptor (select models rated to 3,500 kg)

  • Isuzu D-MAX

  • Mazda BT-50

  • Nissan Navara

  • VW Amarok (new models are strong towers)

• Wagons / SUVs:

  • Toyota LandCruiser 200 or 300 Series

  • Nissan Patrol Y62

  • Prado (borderline, best only if you pack light — 3,000 kg max tow)

  • Jeep Grand Cherokee (diesel models tow 3,500 kg)

3. What to Look For

• 3,000–3,500 kg braked towing capacity

• High GCM (Gross Combined Mass) so you can tow while carrying passengers & gear

• Strong transmission & cooling system for off-road and hilly terrain

• Suspension & GVM upgrades may help if you’re fully loading the camper

In short: If you want hassle-free towing of an Iridium 15 fully loaded, a LandCruiser 200/300, Patrol, or a modern dual-cab ute rated to 3,500 kg will be the safest bets.

Signature Caravan – Solar & Battery in Amps

(All values are approximate, based on 12V equivalent)

1) Daily Power Use (Ah/day @ 12V)

• 12V fridge: 40–60Ah/day

• Lights, pump, phone/iPad: 15–30Ah/day

• Starlink: 35–50Ah/day

• Laptop/TV: 15–40Ah/day

• Induction cooktop (20 min): 35–50Ah/day

• Diesel heater: 10–25Ah/night

Totals:

• Light use: 100–150Ah/day

• Moderate: 160–230Ah/day

• Heavy: 250–330Ah/day

2) Solar Harvest (Ah/day @ 12V)

Rule of thumb: Panel Watts ÷ 12 × 5 peak sun hours × 0.7 efficiency

• 300W solar ≈ 90Ah/day

• 600W solar ≈ 180Ah/day

• 900W solar ≈ 270Ah/day

(On cloudy days, expect 40–60% of these figures.)

3) Battery Capacity (usable in Ah @ 12V)

• 200Ah lithium (12V) ≈ 200Ah usable

• 400Ah lithium (12V) ≈ 400Ah usable

• Signature 48V “10kWh” ≈ ~830Ah @ 12V usable

4) Real-world Scenarios

Kakadu 16 / 18 (48V pack ≈ 830Ah usable, 900W solar ≈ 270Ah/day)

• Light use (120Ah): indefinite – solar easily covers it.

• Moderate (200Ah): solar keeps up (small daily surplus).

• Heavy (300Ah): deficit ~30Ah/day → ~27 days before flat.

• Cloudy (solar ~120Ah/day): deficit ~80–180Ah/day → 5–10 days depending on usage.

Mid Setup (400Ah battery, 600W solar ≈ 180Ah/day)

• Light use (120Ah): solar surplus → indefinite.

• Moderate (200Ah): ~20Ah/day deficit → ~20 days reserve.

• Heavy (300Ah): deficit ~120Ah/day → ~3 days reserve.

Weekender (200Ah battery, 300W solar ≈ 90Ah/day)

• Light use (120Ah): deficit ~30Ah/day → 6 days reserve.

• Moderate (200Ah): deficit ~110Ah/day → ~2 days.

• Heavy (300Ah): deficit ~210Ah/day → less than 1 day (needs alternator/240V help).

Rule of Thumb

Days off-grid (in amps) ≈
Battery Ah ÷ (Daily Ah use – Daily Ah solar)

• If solar ≥ daily use → indefinite off-grid.

• If solar < daily use → divide battery by the deficit for a rough day count.